How do you folks store your pollen? I'm wondering how long it remains viable
- at ambient temperature
- stored in the fridge
- frozen.
And, when freezing, do I need to add silica gel as a dessicant?
This is specifically aloe pollen. More specifically Aloe mutabilis. But I imagine the principles are the same for any.
Muchas gracias.
Storing pollen
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- Paul in Essex
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Re: Storing pollen
I have stored Bromeliad pollen. Best dried with silica gel and then frozen it should keep at least a few months. Dried and refrigerated it will keep a few days, just stored at room temperature it loses its viability very quickly.
It needs to be brought to room temperature still sealed otherwise water will condense on the pollen and render it unusable
It needs to be brought to room temperature still sealed otherwise water will condense on the pollen and render it unusable
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Re: Storing pollen
Mammillaria, Echinopsis, Gymnocalycium, Matucana, Turbinicarpus pollen collected on cotton wool bud sticks wrapped in aluminium foil and in an airtight container will last for 4 to 5 months in a fridge
Endeavouring to grow Aylostera, Echinocereus, Echinopsis, Gymnocalycium, Matucana, Rebutia, and Sulcorebutia. Fallen out of love with Lithops and aggravated by Aeoniums.
Currently being wooed by Haworthia, attempting hybridisation, and enticed by Mesembs.
Currently being wooed by Haworthia, attempting hybridisation, and enticed by Mesembs.
- iann
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Re: Storing pollen
I've used the cotton bud technique for Lithops pollen. Seems to work for a few weeks at least.
Cheshire, UK
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Re: Storing pollen
I've stuck Echinopsis pollen on a cotton bud in the freezer and used it after 10 weeks.
Do you remember Agave Dave's post on storing Agave pollen on Agaveville?
https://www.agaveville.org/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=9201
He's certainly stored pollen successfully for years but it's a bit too complicated for lazy old me!
Do you remember Agave Dave's post on storing Agave pollen on Agaveville?
https://www.agaveville.org/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=9201
He's certainly stored pollen successfully for years but it's a bit too complicated for lazy old me!
Ed
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- Paul in Essex
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Re: Storing pollen
Thanks Ed. I kind of remembered but at the time it mostly went over my head. Just had a quick read and it mostly went over my head.
I'm thinking -
A. cotton buds to collect the pollen.
B. Stick them in a sealed container with silica gel
C. take them out and freeze them.
How long between B and C, I wonder?
I'm thinking -
A. cotton buds to collect the pollen.
B. Stick them in a sealed container with silica gel
C. take them out and freeze them.
How long between B and C, I wonder?
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Re: Storing pollen
From my readings of it, basically Calcium Chloride flakes to dry (so they don't dry the pollen too much) in a sealed container for two hours or overnight. Seal in an airtight container before freezing.
Before use defrost (by holding the container in your hand for 5 minutes) and then place in 75% humidity for 1-2 hours before use.
Before use defrost (by holding the container in your hand for 5 minutes) and then place in 75% humidity for 1-2 hours before use.
Ed
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- Paul in Essex
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Re: Storing pollen
ta. Not that long, really. I don't have calcium chloride but I do have silica gel Anyway, we'll see. it was my aim to use the Aloe mutabilis pollen on Aloiampelos striatula flowers but I am not sure I'll get any this year as all the stems on nearly all my plants have been frosted!
- agavedave
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Re: Storing pollen
To preserve pollen by freezing you need to remove sufficient moisture so that Ice crystals are unable to form. All pollen will behave differently when dried so if you were to equilibrate a selection of pollen to a particular relative humidity they would probably have different amounts of residual moisture.
One way to realise a particular % RH is to use a binary salt solution, that is the salt and water in equilibrium in a sealed container, Its so reliable, it can be used to check the calibration of humidity meters. I chose calcium chloride because it was readily available and 'cheap as chips' This is what I used https://www.kilrock.co.uk/product/damp- ... kg-refill/ and Wilco had it in stock at the time. To get it into the right state just expose a sample to the air for a short while until the flakes appear to be wet, then put it into a sealed container.
Silica gel is great if you want to dry something down to 5% RH or less to preserve it. It would need to be freshly dried in the oven (105-120 °C for a couple of hours). If you were to dry pollen using fresh silica gel it would most likely remove too much moisture and kill it. The second problem with silica gel is that as it absorbs moisture the equilibrium RH will increase and without an accurate humidity meter you won't really know what you've got. The self indicating gels transition colour at quite a low RH. This is one of the properties that curators use to preserve museum exhibits in sealed cases. They use a large excess of silica gel that has been stabilised at the %RH that they need. https://www.musecc.com/silica-gel
Regards
Dave
One way to realise a particular % RH is to use a binary salt solution, that is the salt and water in equilibrium in a sealed container, Its so reliable, it can be used to check the calibration of humidity meters. I chose calcium chloride because it was readily available and 'cheap as chips' This is what I used https://www.kilrock.co.uk/product/damp- ... kg-refill/ and Wilco had it in stock at the time. To get it into the right state just expose a sample to the air for a short while until the flakes appear to be wet, then put it into a sealed container.
Silica gel is great if you want to dry something down to 5% RH or less to preserve it. It would need to be freshly dried in the oven (105-120 °C for a couple of hours). If you were to dry pollen using fresh silica gel it would most likely remove too much moisture and kill it. The second problem with silica gel is that as it absorbs moisture the equilibrium RH will increase and without an accurate humidity meter you won't really know what you've got. The self indicating gels transition colour at quite a low RH. This is one of the properties that curators use to preserve museum exhibits in sealed cases. They use a large excess of silica gel that has been stabilised at the %RH that they need. https://www.musecc.com/silica-gel
Regards
Dave