Hello all,
I'm happy to have become a new member here.
I'm not a veteran when it comes to succulents. In fact I started in early 2008 with buying cactus seeds and a lot of pereskiopsis plants. That year I learned how to graft and how to take care of my plants.
At the end of 2008 I got my first asclepiad (a Stapelia grandiflora). It's on that group of plants that I've focused on since then. And with it came many more plants.
In fact some of these plants made me very curious. One of these is Edithcolea grandis. That name made me wonder who miss Edith Cole was and when and how she collected that plant. I've collected many old articles to retrace her footsteps in 1896. But later more on that if anyone is interested.
I'm also interested in the genetic background of succulents and in particular defects in the chloroplast DNA. This in part because I'm a clinical geneticist (so human DNA abberations are what I study in daily life).
Furthermore, I live in Belgium. I'm married and have two small children.
A picture of me with my asclepiads in hanging baskets, in front of me a perskia plant and my small automated glass house with Edithcole plants:
Hello all
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- Chris in Leeds
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Re: Hello all
Hi Stijn
Welcome to the forum
Where abouts are you in Belgium?
Are you anywhere near Blankenberge as there is ELK near there in September and it is wall to wall plants
Welcome to the forum
Where abouts are you in Belgium?
Are you anywhere near Blankenberge as there is ELK near there in September and it is wall to wall plants
Chris
BCSS MEMBER SINCE 2000 (NATIONAL SHOW)
FORUM MEMBER SINCE JUNE 2006
Interested in - TURBINICARPUS (Always looking for plants I don't have)
TEPHROCACTUS AND RELATED SPECIES
http://www.leeds.bcss.org.uk/ http://www.zone3.bcss.org.uk/
BCSS MEMBER SINCE 2000 (NATIONAL SHOW)
FORUM MEMBER SINCE JUNE 2006
Interested in - TURBINICARPUS (Always looking for plants I don't have)
TEPHROCACTUS AND RELATED SPECIES
http://www.leeds.bcss.org.uk/ http://www.zone3.bcss.org.uk/
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Re: Hello all
I live in the east of Belgium. Close to Maastricht.
But my family comes from the belgian coast. In fact, a uncle from me has a home there that I can rent for a fair price. So perhaps it's indeed a good idea to plan a small holiday at the coast in september.
I would love to see and meet other succulent enthousiasts!
But my family comes from the belgian coast. In fact, a uncle from me has a home there that I can rent for a fair price. So perhaps it's indeed a good idea to plan a small holiday at the coast in september.
I would love to see and meet other succulent enthousiasts!
- EddieA
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Re: Hello all
Hello Stijn
Welcome to the forum - I've only recently joined the forum and the BCSS so I'm new to this.
Your Asclepiads look very well - are they all Stapeliads?
Looks like an excellent way to support them. What do you do with them in the Winter?
Eddie
Welcome to the forum - I've only recently joined the forum and the BCSS so I'm new to this.
Your Asclepiads look very well - are they all Stapeliads?
Looks like an excellent way to support them. What do you do with them in the Winter?
Eddie
Special interests: Aloes, Crassula, Epiphytic Cacti & Hoya
North Surrey BCSS Member
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Re: Hello all
About half of them are Huernia species, the other half stapeliads. In the small glass house there are Edithcolea plants. There are some more hanging baskets hanging outside.
The good thing with those hanging baskets is that you cannot water too much and there is plenty of air around the roots. The downside is that you need to give water more often as the soil dries very quickly.
I also use a soil mix that does not contain organic material. It consists of small gravel, porous rock, loam, a bit of sand and seramis. The latter is expensive, but it hold fluids quite well.
In winter most of them are under a window in the roof of our house. There they get all light they need and the temperature doesn't drop below 15°C.
The more sensitive plants go into an incubator in winter where the day temperature is about 25-30°C and night temps around 15-20°C. There is also plenty of artificial light in there (CFL 2700K and 6500K and blue/red led lights). In fact, I can grow sturdy plants there in winter and some of the huernia also bloomed last winter.
Here is one of the plants they has been growing under artificial lights. It started in early winter as small cutting and bloomed in may this year without having seen natural light. Huernia brevirostris
The good thing with those hanging baskets is that you cannot water too much and there is plenty of air around the roots. The downside is that you need to give water more often as the soil dries very quickly.
I also use a soil mix that does not contain organic material. It consists of small gravel, porous rock, loam, a bit of sand and seramis. The latter is expensive, but it hold fluids quite well.
In winter most of them are under a window in the roof of our house. There they get all light they need and the temperature doesn't drop below 15°C.
The more sensitive plants go into an incubator in winter where the day temperature is about 25-30°C and night temps around 15-20°C. There is also plenty of artificial light in there (CFL 2700K and 6500K and blue/red led lights). In fact, I can grow sturdy plants there in winter and some of the huernia also bloomed last winter.
Here is one of the plants they has been growing under artificial lights. It started in early winter as small cutting and bloomed in may this year without having seen natural light. Huernia brevirostris
- EddieA
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Re: Hello all
Stijn
There's a lot of information on that last post and some things that particularly interest me as I haven't yet tried them but was considering them
I am interested in trying seramis and would greatly appreciate hearing more of your experience with it
Sorry if this is a long post to answer but you seem to have touched on a lot of the things I am interested in trying
Eddie
There's a lot of information on that last post and some things that particularly interest me as I haven't yet tried them but was considering them
What food do they get?I also use a soil mix that does not contain organic material. It consists of small gravel, porous rock, loam, a bit of sand and seramis. The latter is expensive, but it hold fluids quite well.
I am interested in trying seramis and would greatly appreciate hearing more of your experience with it
That sounds a really good solution do you heat the room/attic or is the warmth coming from your house? - what's the temperature outside?In winter most of them are under a window in the roof of our house. There they get all light they need and the temperature doesn't drop below 15°C.
What kind of heating and control system do you use to manage day/night tempsThe more sensitive plants go into an incubator in winter where the day temperature is about 25-30°C and night temps around 15-20°C.
I am thinking of trying LEDS, for cuttings and seed raising and maybe overwintering some difficult plants- again I would very much like to hear of your experience, what LEDS product you use , distances etc.There is also plenty of artificial light in there (CFL 2700K and 6500K and blue/red led lights).
That seems really quick - 9 months from cutting to flower - very good.Here is one of the plants they has been growing under artificial lights. It started in early winter as small cutting and bloomed in may this year without having seen natural light.
Sorry if this is a long post to answer but you seem to have touched on a lot of the things I am interested in trying
Eddie
Special interests: Aloes, Crassula, Epiphytic Cacti & Hoya
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Re: Hello all
Hi Stijn, This has been an interesting post, Welcome to the Forum!
I think you will find a lot of people on this Forum use Tesco Premium lightweight Catlitter (non-clumping)instead of Semiramis, as it is very similar and a lot cheaper. It is something I have not used, yet, but I am thinking about getting soon, to encourage some tricky plants to root.
I think you will find a lot of people on this Forum use Tesco Premium lightweight Catlitter (non-clumping)instead of Semiramis, as it is very similar and a lot cheaper. It is something I have not used, yet, but I am thinking about getting soon, to encourage some tricky plants to root.
Obsessive Crassulaceae lover, especially Aeoniums but also grow, Aloes, Agaves, Haworthias and a select number of Cacti.
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Re: Hello all
I give them diluted fertilizer for cacti. Once every two weeks.EddieA wrote: What food do they get?
I am interested in trying seramis and would greatly appreciate hearing more of your experience with it.
The seramis works very well in those hanging basket lines with coconut fibers. It takes up fluid without keeping the roots 'wet'. In my case, it prevents the soil to become dry too quickly. In plastic pots, I would not use is as it holds too much water in such case. Perhaps even in ceramic pots that might be a problem if you water a lot.
But I use only 1/4 Seramis. The loam I use to hold the soil particles somewhat together. The other material are coarse grit that is also used for pond filtration, charcoal and some sand.
Stijn wrote:In winter most of them are under a window in the roof of our house. There they get all light they need and the temperature doesn't drop below 15°C.
Most of the heating comes from the house, but if it drops below 18° an electric heather starts to run. So it never really drops below 15°C, even not last winter when the temperatures outside dropped below -15°C (I checked with temperature logger placed near the plants).EddieA wrote:That sounds a really good solution do you heat the room/attic or is the warmth coming from your house? - what's the temperature outside?
Stijn wrote:The more sensitive plants go into an incubator in winter where the day temperature is about 25-30°C and night temps around 15-20°C.
The heat comes from the CFL lamps. Two small fans circulate the air, that spreads the heat evenly and cools the lamps. If it gets too hot, fresh air is blown into the incubator.EddieA wrote:What kind of heating and control system do you use to manage day/night temps
Stijn wrote:There is also plenty of artificial light in there (CFL 2700K and 6500K and blue/red led lights).
Currently I'm using red/blue leds, about 90 watt/m2. It are those 225 leds panels that measure 30x30cm and that are offered on ebay for example. They are not too expensive. I've placed them about 40cm above the plants and their light spreads well.EddieA wrote:I am thinking of trying LEDS, for cuttings and seed raising and maybe overwintering some difficult plants- again I would very much like to hear of your experience, what LEDS product you use , distances etc.
But I rather use them as an additional lighting. I'm not planning to exchange more CFL with leds, also partly because I want the heat the CFL produce.
About the fluorescent lighting: I use 50% 2700°K 50% 6500°K. At about 250 watt/m2. I decided these two colour temperatures as they combine into a nice spectrum for plants, while being economical in purchase.
Recently I've bought some additional blue and red LED spots, 2.4Watt each, 5 euro/piece incl. postage. They are more focussed and I'm planning to use them as directed lighting for certain plants.
The plants are lighted 16 hours/day.
Stijn wrote:Here is one of the plants they has been growing under artificial lights. It started in early winter as small cutting and bloomed in may this year without having seen natural light.
Yes, it surprised me as well. But I think the constant heat, a lot of light and giving regular watering did the trick. I didn't expected flowering, but two other plants got flowers: Stapelia grandiflora and Huernia procumbens.EddieA wrote:That seems really quick - 9 months from cutting to flower - very good.
At first I was a bit afraid that my asclepiads would etoliate and stretch, but to the contrary they grow into sturdy plants. My Edithcolea plants tripled in size in half a year and Edithcolea seedlings from march are now about 6 cm in length with multiple branches.
At first I was also reluctant to water too much, but none of my plants have shown any sign of rotting, despite the fact that they are rarely in dry soil (but it's also never really 'wet'!).
I believe that it's important to make sure that the roots of succulents get plenty of fresh air. That prevents anaerobic conditions that would damage the roots and make the plant vulnerable to bacteria and fungi.
Therefore I use the ventilation fans, the loose soil, the coconut lined baskets and no organic additions to the soil. The downside: I need to water them once every two days and sometimes every day. But considering my results, I think it's worth the efforts.
Perhaps I should practise more patience, but so far so good.
You're welcome! Much of what I know I learned from other by asking questions.EddieA wrote:Sorry if this is a long post to answer but you seem to have touched on a lot of the things I am interested in trying
Eddie
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Re: Hello all
Stijn
Thanks for such a detailed reply
You've given me sufficient information to decide how to proceed - a great help!
Eddie
Thanks for such a detailed reply
You've given me sufficient information to decide how to proceed - a great help!
Eddie
Special interests: Aloes, Crassula, Epiphytic Cacti & Hoya
North Surrey BCSS Member
North Surrey BCSS Member
Re: Hello all
hi stijn, this is 3bears from eastern usa. i am new here too.
first for eddie, here's a link to a blog i have found helpful regarding led's and cfl's for seedlings.
http://pereskiopsisforestryservice.blogspot.com/
i have to say a friend showed me a led panel he bought as a "gro-lite" and i laughed because i simply couldn't believe a light like that would grow anything!. then i found this blog, apparently its a great way to raise seedlings. so, i ordered a box of 14 watt panels as stijn has described off ebay. i plan on experimenting with them this winter.
now i have some periskiopsis grafting questions for stijn, or anyone who knows:
1. i have done my first pereskiopsis/ariocarpus seedling grafts, june 21 , out of 7, it looks like 4 have "took". the pereskiopsis has in this time shot out a branch right at the base of the graft. can i leave this on and do another graft on it later? or should it be removed completely?
2. the scion normally needs a cold dry rest, but the pereskiopsis wants to stay warm and wet. so how should these grafts be treated this winter?
3. is there any special watering treatment needed right after the graft is made regarding watering the pereskiopsis? i have heard internal water pressure can pop the scion off if you water it too soon or even the day before you graft.
thanks for any advice, 3bears
first for eddie, here's a link to a blog i have found helpful regarding led's and cfl's for seedlings.
http://pereskiopsisforestryservice.blogspot.com/
i have to say a friend showed me a led panel he bought as a "gro-lite" and i laughed because i simply couldn't believe a light like that would grow anything!. then i found this blog, apparently its a great way to raise seedlings. so, i ordered a box of 14 watt panels as stijn has described off ebay. i plan on experimenting with them this winter.
now i have some periskiopsis grafting questions for stijn, or anyone who knows:
1. i have done my first pereskiopsis/ariocarpus seedling grafts, june 21 , out of 7, it looks like 4 have "took". the pereskiopsis has in this time shot out a branch right at the base of the graft. can i leave this on and do another graft on it later? or should it be removed completely?
2. the scion normally needs a cold dry rest, but the pereskiopsis wants to stay warm and wet. so how should these grafts be treated this winter?
3. is there any special watering treatment needed right after the graft is made regarding watering the pereskiopsis? i have heard internal water pressure can pop the scion off if you water it too soon or even the day before you graft.
thanks for any advice, 3bears